Magical Places Fine Art at Facebook

Salar de Uyuni Excursion, Bolivia

« « My Fourth Day In Tupiza, Bolivia | Imagekind Blog Challenge - Priscilla Turner (Photographer) » »

Jun 7th, 2007 | By admin | Category: Travel Journal
The Salar de Uyuni was the sight that I wanted to see most of all in Bolivia. I’ve seen it on TV and in photos. It’s the world’s largest salt flat, the remains of a prehistoric inland sea.There are two ways to get there. The first, go to the nearby town of Uyuni and book an excursion. However everything I’ve read says the tour companies here are not reliable.The second way is to book a four day tour from Tupiza. The tour companies here are very professional, so I asked around and booked an excursion with Valle Hermoso. All the tours stick pretty much to the same route (with some variations). The plan went something like this:

Day One – Leave at 9am, travelling from Tupiza up into the Altiplano towards San Antonio de Lipez where we will spend the night.

Day Two – Leave at 6am, travelling west towards Aguas Termas and beyond to the Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde, finishing at Huallajara for the night.

Day Three – Leave at 8am, heading north past the Árbol de Piedra to Puerto Chibica to stay the night.

Day Four – Leave at 8am, driving across the Salar de Uyuni to the Isla del Pescado and finishing in the town of Uyuni in the afternoon.

The deal is that there are between four and six people travelling in the jeep, with a driver (Hector) and cook (Perfida). There were six people in our jeep and I was lucky to get a good group of people: three Australian girls (Corinna, Elisha & Beau) and two Israeli guys (Uriel & Dudu).

Day One

We left Tupiza in the morning, following a dirt track uphill. The first part of the journey was a little like a roller coaster as Hector flung the jeep into tight curves just inches away from steep drops into the valleys below. Our first photo stop was El Sillar, with great views over the valleys and colourful mountains of Tupiza.

We continued on, climbing higher and higher, following the dirt road across a plain with mountians raising up on both sides. We stopped for lunch in a desolate, windy location called Huama Pampa. There were llamas nearby, and a man in blue overalls working on what looked like a fuel tank in the middle of nowhere. I’m not sure what he was doing but it struck me this is a pretty awful place to earn a living. There was a small adobe hut by the tank and I hope that it wasn’t his home.

In the afternoon we stopped in a small village called Cerillos. Some kids came running to meet us and we gave them sweets and took photos, and watched amazed as one little girl kicked another and took her chocolate and ran off into the distance. The village was small and desolate, a small group of adobe houses. Perfida explained that the people here herd llamas for a living. Once a week a truck comes and they take llama meat and wool to Tupiza to sell so they can buy supplies. This was the first remote village we had stopped in and we were to see several more during the excursion. It amazes me that people live in these high, remote places, far from civilisation, battling the wind, cold and altitude to eke out a living.

In the late afternoon we came to San Antonio de Lipez, a staggering 4200 metres (13700 feet) above sea level. This is more than three times higher than Ben Nevis. The six of us shared a room with an outside bathroom (with no shower or hot water). Luckily the beds had plenty of blankets because the temperature overnight typically drops to minus 12 degrees celsius and there was no heating….For us an uncomfortable night to spend but worth it because of the amazing places we’re seeing, but imagine how it must be for the people who live here.

As the sun set I walked around the village taking photos. There were a lot of curious kids, I saw some playing basketball and others looking at me from doorways or windows. They were curious but shy and didn’t want their photos taken (the people here can be very suspicious of outsiders and I’ve read they believe that a photo can take their soul) except for one little boy called Esteban who posed like a wannabe rock star.

Church in Cerillos


Kids in Cerillos

Esteban, the only child in San Antonio de Lipez who wanted to pose
San Antonio de Lipez street

Sunset, San Antonio de Lipez
Day TwoAn early morning start in the dark and we stopped off at Pueblo Fantasma as the sun rose. An abandoned mining town 4690 metres (15380 feet) above sea level (according to an inscription on one of the ruined buildings). The Spanish mined gold and silver here, and bought in African slaves to do the work (they did the same in Potosí). Today the only monument to the suffering is the crumbling ruins. Hector told us there is still gold in the mountains here but 300 metres underground.We drove on to the Laguna Morejón and we took photos of the icy white laguna with El Torreón (an extinct volcano) in the background. We had climbed to 4855 metres (15920 feet) above sea level.

A little further on we had a flat tyre, giving us another photo opportunity of the volcano and the chance to test the strength of the ice in a frozen stream. A couple of hours later we came to the Laguna Hedionda for more photos, another icy white lake framed by mountains and extinct volcanoes, and a small herd of wild vicuña at it’s side.

Then we arrived at Aguas Termas, hot thermal springs which was our opportunity to bath for the day (10 minutes in the baths then lunch said Hector). I didn’t bother with the springs and took photos instead.

After lunch we drove down to the main attractions in the area, the Laguna Verde and Laguna Blanca (Green Lagoon and White Lagoon respectively). These two lagunas are in the remote southwest of Bolivia, near the Chilean border, high in the altiplano, virtually inaccessible because of their remoteness and the inhospitable climate. We took photos by the Laguna Verde, the water a pale green colour topped by white froth caused by the fierce frigid wind howling off the mountains. Hector told us it was greener in the summer, then took us down to the Laguna Blanca where he showed us another thermal spring. He told us we could swim there, and just after Dudu and Uriel had changed and were about to get in told us that they could only put their legs in for a few minutes as there was a tiny red organism in the water that could enter the body through the skin. But it was OK to put your legs in for a few minutes….Uriel and Dudu changed their minds about entering the water and we returned to the jeep to head north towards Huallajara, our destination for the night.

Huallajara wasn’t even a town, just a large adobe hostal in the middle of nowhere, 4500 metres (14760 feet) above sea level. The only place nearby to stay apparently, as 9 or 10 jeeps from different tour groups stopped here for the night. Again no hot water, no heating, and typical overnight temperatures of minus 15 degrees celsius. But plenty of blankets, and as far as I know no-one got hypothermia, but imagine my surprise to find a man from another group in the bathroom in the morning, stripped to the waist, pouring cold water from the taps over his body and through his hair…

Church, Pueblo Fantasma

Hey, does anyone know how high we are? Frozen river with El Torreón in the background (right) Laguna Morejón

Near the thermal baths


The Laguna Verde

Laguna Blanca

Geysers

Didn´t Hector say not to go too near?
Day Three

Our first stop for the day was Laguna Colorado (Red Lagoon). Just as it’s name suggested the water was a pale red colour. Hector told us it was at it’s reddest after 11am, but as we had a places to go we couldn’t hang around that long. There were flamingoes in the lake (only a few, there are more in the summer) and it was a beautiful sight under the clear blue sky and brilliant sun.An hour later we came to the Árbol de Piedra (Stone Tree), a remarkable rock with a narrow base and wide top balanced precariously in the desert. Probably Bolivia’s most famous rock, judging by the number of photos I’ve seen of it.Then on past some more lagunas, stopping for a lunch with a view of Ollague volcano, before finally arriving in Puerto Chivica for the night. The late morning and afternoon passed in bit of a blur, as we drove through remote villages and desolate scenery, with nothing remarkable to break the monotony.

I walked around Puerto Chivica taking photos in the late afternoon, a small village of adobe houses and an ancient church, with incredible views over the distant Salar de Uyuni.

Our hostel had beds made of salt (with mattresses on top luckily), plentiful blankets and…hot showers!! Well, one hot shower which cost an extra 5 bolivianos (less than a dollar) to use. And electricity that was switched on just between 7pm and 9pm…but with hot showers and much milder temperatures than the other hostals everybody was happy.

Laguna Colarada, with Flamingoes

The Àrbol de Piedra….what´s Uriel doing?

Group stone tree hug time

View from Puerto Chivica
I´m not sure what this is, there were several in Puerto Chivica. For offerings of some kind maybe?
Because in this one there was what looks like a goat´s foot.

Church and street, Puerto Chivica

Child & bike, Puerto Chivica

View across the Salar de Uyuni at sunset from Puerto Chivica
Day FourAt last the big day, we were going to the Salar de Uyuni. The jeep raced across the white salt flats early in the morning. The Salar was a blazing white under the blazing sun and deep blue sky. At 3600 metres (11800 feet) above sea level it’s the world’s largest salt flat and a remnant of a vast prehistoric inland sea.We came to the Isla del Pescado (Fish Island), so called because it looks like a fish from the distance. We spent an hour or so taking photos and climbing to the top of the island. The island was covered in rocks and cactuses. It wasn’t as remote as I thought, there was a hostal and souveneir shop at the bottom and a scattering of jeeps and their passengers at the base.

Then we drove across the Salar towards Uyuni, stopping at the Ojos de Agua (Water Eyes) where Hector took a mallet from the jeep and hammered some holes in the salt. The salt was only a few inches thick here and underneath, water, with crystallised salt in the water. I noticed the salt moving when someone stepped heavily on it…but it supported our weight and the weight of the jeep fine.

We then came to the Salt Hotel, a hotel in the middle of the Salar literally made out of salt, before stopping for lunch in the village of Colchani, where we saw how salt taken from the Salar was bought here for purification. Then on to Uyuni, where I took one look at the desolate town and decided that I had had enough of poor, remote Andean towns and decided to get a lift back with Hector and Perfida to Tupiza.

Beds made of salt…

What are these crazy people doing? Has the salt driven them mad?

Ahhh….now it makes sense. They´re making photos like this. Dudu with mini Australian girls.

Cacti, Isla de Pescado
View across the Salar de Uyuni from Isla de Pescado

Salar de Uyuni

Hector making holes in the Salar…I wonder how many millions of years it took the salt to form?

Group shot

Posing in front of the Salt Hotel

Share This Post

Add to Digg, StumbleUpon, Facebook; E-mail to a friend etc...

Subscribe to Free Updates

 

Subscribe to free updates by RSS or E-mail.

Related Posts

 

 


4 comments

Leave a comment »
  1. ‘Salar de Uyini’ is fantastic and beautiful. Thank you for your great article! Bye, Lucy Relatos.

  2. In One Word….AWESOME!

    This goes in my favorites…

    Sneezy Melon
    (http://sneezymelon.blogspot.com)

  3. that foto with the mini Australian girls is awesome

Trackbacks
  1. [...] publication. One of the photos was from Bolivia and the editor liked it, so I gave him the link to this blog entry detailing the trip. From this experience I learnt quite accidentally how my blog can promote my [...]

Leave Comment